SALON MARECIC 2
By Chuck Marecic
I would be remiss, especially since I’ve been reminded (or was that
reprimanded?) by my friend Dunja, if Salon Marecic neglected to provide at
least a few photos of Koprivnica, Croatia. Koprivnica (KC) is a small town
near Croatia’s northern border with Hungary. Actually, it is the first train
stop inside Croatia on the Budapest to Zagreb route. Normally, you don't get
off at the KC stop unless you live there, have business with the Podravka
company, or you answer an add for a volunteer summer English teaching
position at Camp Sunny Village in Jagnedovac, a village about ten to fifteen
kilometers from KC. People don’t usually travel to KC—even on a lark—because
its not exciting like Zagreb, exotic like Plitvice Lakes or Dubrovnik, or
exploited like the seaside. My friends from other parts of Croatia look at
me kind of funny when I mention KC. Typically they think that I’d either
lost my bearings or fell asleep on the train and missed my “real” stop.
In a way, KC’s relative obscurity is its great asset. For the most part, it
is a peaceful town, with central European sensibilities—hardworking,
pragmatic, yet sympathetic to good food and good company. To the north lies
the River Drava, the semiwild lifeblood of the region. KC is surrounded by
rural villages and rolling hills filled with chestnut forests and farmland
in all directions. Large storks nest on rooftops and utility poles. Although
the scenery is not as dramatic as it is in other parts of Croatia, spring
explodes, the summers are lush, green, and fertile, and the autumn is
abundant. Winters, contrary to my friend Helena Hechimovich’s opinion, are
lousy, dreary, dank, and provide a good excuse to explore the southern
Dalmatian coast.
Like many regions, KC struggles to maintain its traditional identity and
natural landscape while trying to develop its economic potential and
accommodate its growing population. It is a place where people go about
their business living, working, tending their gardens and vineyards, and
getting used to the idea that occasionally an outsider wanders into their
little town. Over the past two years, I have spent roughly four months in KC
(much to the amazement of just about everybody). I had the exceptional good
fortune to spend a lot of time with my most gracious hosts, the Hechimovich
family. Through their hospitality, warmth, and friendship, Helena and Davor
have given me valuable insight into KC that continues to
spark my interest and kindle my passion for Croatia.
1. Two Blue Train
The Koprivnica train station, my usual first and last stop in Koprivnica.
2. Three Banners
Podravka Company; Croatia; Town of Koprivnica—the three fates of Koprivnicaa?
3. Town Square After Rain Storm
Although empty now, the square is a regular gathering place with its market,
cafes, and the town cinema. The square is also packed for special town
festivals like Town Day or Drava Day.
4. Drava Fisherman
I spent a Saturday afternoon tramping around a rain saturated Podravina with
two friends, Goran and Mario. We came across this fisherman quite content to
spend an October day catching fish, smoking cigarettes, and ignoring the
rain.
5. Hlebine Naďve Artist
After spending half the day wandering through the Podravina in the rain, we
stopped into the naďve art studio of Branko Matina to dry off for a few
minutes. Hlebine is one of several villages in the area that are trying to
combine ecotourism and local resources in an attempt to develop the local
economy without overly exploiting Podravina’s natural beauty.
6. Helena’s Chrysanthemums
This was perhaps the most tranquil moment that I witnessed at the
Hechimovich household!
7. Constellation: Starigrad Fungi
One rainy afternoon, I spent several hours wandering along the trails
through the hills and chestnut forests of Starigrad. Although my mission was
chestnut gathering, I could not resist stopping for a few moments to check
out these mushrooms.
8. Punk Is Not Dead
Graffiti on a wall near the Koprivnica train station.
